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Neighborhood Histories: Spruce Hill

Spruce Hill is the sweet spot of University City in West Philadelphia, known for its historic Victorian architecture and vibrant, diverse community. Bordered by Market Street and Woodland Avenue between 40th and 49th Streets, the neighborhood first flourished not because of its proximity to the University, but because of the advent of horse-drawn trolley cars. For the first time, Philadelphians could commute downtown while living in the newly developing “suburb” of West Philadelphia. Between 1850 and 1910, residents were drawn to Spruce Hill’s spacious Queen Anne homes, leafy streets, and quieter pace of life.

From Farmland to a Streetcar Suburb

Before its development in the mid-19th century, Spruce Hill was largely rural, inhabited by a sparse population of farmers and wealthy landowners. They included William Hamilton, an architect and botanist who inherited hundreds of acres overlooking the Schuylkill and built a lavish 16-room Georgian mansion and arboretum. Now known as the Woodlands, a National Historic Landmark at 4000 Woodland Ave., it serves as a cemetery and an arboretum maintained by the University of Pennsylvania and the West Campus of St. Joseph’s University. It is also the headquarters of the Philadelphia Orchard Project. If you have an interest in horticulture and history, the Woodlands makes a delightful outing.

In 1886, architects George and William Hewitt designed a group of Queen Anne houses between 4206-18 Spruce that are described as “the most distinguished block of late 19th-century houses in the city” in Philadelphia Architecture: A Guide to the City by former Preservation Alliance director John Gallery. The Hewitts, who also designed mansions in Chestnut Hill and Main Line, gave Spruce Hill a blend of Queen Anne with High Victorian flair. This included dramatic gables, a bold color scheme, and mixed materials not found in Center City townhouses and rowhouses. Also attributed to the Hewitt Brothers are the thirteen mid-19th century, red brick, Italianate row houses between Locust and Walnut streets, and 42nd and 43rd streets. 

The neighborhood also includes Second Empire and Georgian Revival styles featuring large porches, bay windows, and decorative details. Another architect who added to the character of Spruce Hill is Charles S. Metzger. His fanciful Queen Anne house at 4232 Pine St., built in 1906, is one of nine homes he developed on Pine Street featuring semi-detached twins.  

Anthony J. Drexel was significant in Spruce Hill history, not only as the founder of Drexel University, but also as an expansive property owner and developer. Following the Civil War, he built an ornate, 45-room Italianate mansion on a property bounded by 38th, 39th, Walnut, and Locust Streets – what is now a prime slice of Penn’s campus. Drexel also built mansions for two of his sons in the Queen Ann style. One mansion is now home to the Pi Phi Chapter of Sigma Chi fraternity; another now belongs to the Alpha Tau Omega. Drexel also owned undeveloped properties between Larchwood and Spruce Streets from 46th to north of 47th.  

23 South 42nd Street Image: Stacia Friedman

The biggest developer in Spruce Hill was financier Clarence Howard Clark, who built a grandiose 34-room mansion for himself named Chestnutwold at 4200 Locust Street. The three-story brownstone mansion had hand-carved mahogany paneling, stained glass windows, hand-painted wallpaper, a private art gallery, a library, and a hydraulic elevator. But don’t go looking for it. Chestnutwold was demolished in 1916 and, today, is the site of the Penn Alexander public elementary school. But you will find a perfect example of Victorian Gothic style at 4200 Spruce, built circa 1890, which was the home of Clark’s son, Clarence Howard Clark, Jr.

Clark’s most lasting gift to Spruce Hill was Clark Park, a public park with 9 acres containing 500 trees, bordered by 43rd and 45th streets, and by Baltimore and Woodland Avenues. This is where neighbors, students, and visitors gather for picnics, chess, live music, movie nights in August, and a year-round Saturday Farmers Market featuring seasonal produce, bakery goods, and food trucks.  The park is also known for its historic Charles Dickens statue, cast in 1890, and has an annual event in February celebrating the author.

Renewal

In the 1990s, when University City experienced a rise in crime, Spruce Hill was considered less desirable until Penn made an effort to encourage faculty and staff to buy homes there by offering them zero-interest mortgages. They also improved the schools, public safety, and restored Clark Park. Since then, the area has become one of the most popular real estate markets in the City. In 2024, the Philadelphia Historical Commission voted unanimously to create the Southeast Spruce Hill Historic District, bounded by Spruce Street to the north, 39th Street to the east, Baltimore and Woodland Avenues to the south, and 43rd Street to the west. 

Spruce Hill Summer Events 

Spruce Hill’s strong sense of community is perhaps most visible during the neighborhood’s annual festivals and public events.

West Philly Porch Fest is a raucous afternoon of free live music, from Balkan to Brazilian, throughout Spruce Hill, on May 30th,12-6 pm. Check the website to see who is playing where. If you want to get a taste of the international flavor of this vibrant community, participate in the annual Baltimore Avenue Dollar Stroll, between 40th and 52nd, on Thursday, June 4th. Or, better yet, try some of Spruce Hill’s dining hot spots anytime. Sample award-winning Ethiopian cuisine at Doro Bet, Jamaican specialties at 48th Street Grille, or authentic Mexican dishes at Don Barriga. Over Memorial Day Weekend, raise a mug at Parks on Tap, May 20-25. Shakespeare in Clark Park Theatre Company presents Hamlet, July 29th-Aug. 2nd. 

Solo Real Estate’s motto, “love where you live,” validates why so many have chosen to call this thriving, architecturally significant community home. With its remarkable architecture, walkable streets, cultural diversity, and enduring community spirit, it’s easy to understand why Spruce Hill remains one of Philadelphia’s most desirable neighborhoods. More than a historic district, it is a neighborhood that continues to thrive while honoring the character that made it special in the first place.

Neighborhood Histories: East Passyunk

East Passyunk has a history that predates the Colonial era. In fact, it existed long before the Mayflower or Columbus set sail. The neighborhood that is now Philly’s vibrant nightlife hub was home to the Lenni Lenape for over ten thousand years. Passyunk Avenue was originally their trade route. When William Penn arrived in 1682, he pledged to treat Native Americans equally and purchased land from them north of what is now South Street, land that would become Philadelphia. All of the land below South Street to the mouth of the Delaware River and west to what is now Point Breeze was Lenni Lenape territory. They named this area Passyunk, meaning “in the valley,” and Moyamensing, “place of the black cherry trees.”

Passyunk Avenue, 1800s. Image: Public Domain

Although Swedes settled within the upper Lenni Lenape territory, known as Southwark, in the mid-17th century, the peaceful Native Americans remained until they were forced out by William Penn’s son Thomas in the 1740s. Some resisted leaving and remained until the 1880s. The area stayed rural farmland through the 18th century, but later developed into an industrial and residential center in the early-to-mid-19th century before officially merging with the City of Philadelphia in 1854. Its image at the time, however, was that of an impoverished and dangerous area. No wonder the City chose it as the site of Moyamensing Prison at 10th and Reed, built in Egyptian Revival style in 1835. Demolished in 1967, it is now home to an Acme.

From the mid-19th century to the dawn of the 20th century, mass migration reshaped East Passyunk as freed slaves and Irish, German, Eastern European, and Italian immigrants arrived seeking jobs. Not surprisingly, the construction of affordable row houses between 1850 and 1900 coincided with this influx. “The neighborhood was built as a working-class district of vernacular architecture,” said Paul Steinke, Executive Director of the Preservation Alliance for Greater Philadelphia. “As a result, there has been little historic preservation in South Philadelphia.” The row house remains the primary type of home construction, most built over 100 years ago, with the exception of former industrial properties that have since been converted into residential lofts.

Marra’s Ad. Image: Public Domain.

The neighborhood’s true gems are the businesses that have always been there. Pat’s Steaks at Passyunk and 9th Street opened in 1930. Their competitor, Geno’s, didn’t open until 1966. If you walked along East Passyunk Avenue in the 1950s or ’60s, you would have seen a thriving retail corridor known simply as “the Avenue.” Conversations were still sprinkled with Sicilian dialect. Families shopped here for bridal and Christening gowns, parochial school uniforms, furniture, jewelry, and floral bouquets. Some of those businesses, like Boystown Girlstown, Official School Uniform Outfitter at 1708 E. Passyunk, have been there for over 75 years. Other establishments that have stood the test of time are the “red gravy” restaurants offering a taste of home, including Marra’s (1734 Passyunk), Triangle Tavern (1338 S. 10th St.), and Victor’s Café (1303 Dickinson), all dating back more than 90 years. (Note: Marra’s recently closed, fear not, they are moving to a new location.)

By the mid-20th century, East Passyunk was predominantly Italian. In the 1970s, many residents left for new developments in southern New Jersey. In the 1990s, waves of Asian and Hispanic immigrants reshaped the neighborhood once again. Mexican, Thai, and Cambodian restaurants and bodegas began popping up throughout the area. A mural by the Mural Arts Project, “Aquí y Allá” at 1515 S. Sixth Street, tells the story of the neighborhood’s growing Mexican immigrant population. One of the newest communities in the neighborhood is Orthodox Jews, who in 2019 transformed the former Philadelphia Scooters at 1733 East Passyunk Ave. into a synagogue, the South Philly Shtiebel. At one time, there were 150 synagogues in South Philly; today, this is one of only two remaining.

Shopping on Passyunk Avenue. Image: K. Kelly for VISIT Philadelphia.

Like many former working-class neighborhoods, East Passyunk began transitioning into a more diverse, mixed-income community in the early 21st century as an influx of young professionals and new businesses arrived. The Passyunk Avenue Revitalization Corporation (PARC) serves a dual mission as a nonprofit real estate development and management company and as a public space enhancement organization. That includes upgrading the Singing Fountain’s plumbing. “We’re expanding the plaza while adding seating and greenery. The fountain’s audio plays Mario Lanza along with local artists,” said Alex Balloon, Executive Director of PARC. “Most of the properties we own are around the Singing Fountain. That includes restaurants like Mish Mish, River Twice, and Superette, a wine bar.” In warmer weather, Balloon says East Passyunk draws 55,000 pedestrians a week. Other great businesses in the area include Good Buy Supply, a sustainable zero-waste shop, and the South Philly Food Coop.

Singing Fountain. Image: Hope Deluisio for VISIT PHILLY.

East Passyunk has always been a neighborhood defined by movement. Movement of people, of commerce, and of culture. From Lenni Lenape trade routes to immigrant row houses, from “red gravy” institutions to award-winning restaurants, its story is one of constant reinvention layered over deep roots. What was once farmland, then a factory district, and later a predominantly Italian neighborhood, is now a dynamic corridor where history and modern life intersect on every block.

That layered past is exactly what gives the East Passyunk neighborhood its energy today. The architecture tells one story. The murals tell another. The storefronts, some a century old and others brand new, continue to shape the next chapter.

Solo encourages you to explore everything East Passyunk has to offer and, if you’re interested in becoming part of this evolving neighborhood, speak with a Solo agent about commercial and residential opportunities.

Neighborhood Histories: Francisville

One of North Philly’s many tight-knit neighborhoods, Francisville started out as a vineyard. Situated east of Fairmount and north of the Spring Garden area, this rapidly growing community with families and young professionals seeking a neighborhood vibe within minutes of Center City. Read on to see why.

Francisville History

In the late 19th century, Francisville’s grape vineyards made way for factories. Unlike the street grid of the rest of the City, Francisville is not laid out north to south but perpendicular to Ridge Avenue which runs at an angle, creating triangles rather than square blocks.

1910 map showing parts of Fairmount, Francisville, and Poplar.

The aptly named Vineyard Street is all that remains of the neighborhood’s agrarian past, after which it became home to factory workers and factories. One of the largest was the Philadelphia Watch Case Company factory at 19th and Brown Street. Here, hundreds of men, women, and children (before child labor laws) produced 4,000 watch cases every day. Housing in the area consisted of mainly early 20th-century brick rowhouses, a contrast to the larger townhouses and opulent mansions of captains of industry located nearby in Fairmount and on North Broad Street.

When the watch case company’s Swiss-born owner moved the successful business to New Jersey, the site became the King Shoe Factory in 1915. The factory closed in the 1960s and was demolished in the 1970s. The closing of factories in Francisville and throughout Philadelphia when manufacturing moved abroad, created unemployment and many buildings fell into disrepair in the years that followed.  

However, a recent boom in development is turning Francisville into a popular neighborhood. The corner of 19th and Brown where the shoe factory once stood, had remained a barren field for decades. Now, it’s the site of a four-story, five-unit, condominium completed in 2020. This cycle of repurposing industrial sites and older homes into luxury dwellings has been repeated throughout Francisville, along with an influx of new coffee shops like Vineyards Cafe and neighborhood shops for residents to enjoy.

Community Activism

Back in 2009, a WHYY article described Francisville as having over “400 vacant lots and scores of vacant buildings.” Today, Francisville offers a mix of affordable and upscale housing, thanks, in large part, to neighborhood activism.

The Francisville Neighborhood Development Corporation (FNDC) is developing two projects, including 60 condo units and a marketplace designed to resemble a small Reading Terminal Market. Formerly known as the Concerned Residents of Francisville Community Development, the grassroots, non-profit organization was originally formed by residents in 2002 for the purpose of revitalizing the Girard Avenue corridor. The FNDC’s mission is to, “Improve the quality of life in the Francisville community through Equitable Commercial and Residential Development programs that preserve the indigenous people’s inclusion and cultures, to support indigenous-owned businesses, and preserve and promote our rich history.” One of FNDC’s newest projects is the creation of the Indigenous People’s Artisan Marketplace at 1608 Ridge Avenue, including craft and culinary vendors.

A newer community organization, the United Francisville Civic Association, was founded to foster well-being, inclusiveness, and diversity throughout the community and guide redevelopment, new construction projects, and zoning enforcement in a manner that is sensitive to the neighborhood’s heritage and historic standards.

Another notable organization in the area is Cloud 9 Community Farms, a group that “fosters leadership, resilience, and environmental stewardship through youth and community-led food and garden programs.” Cloud 9 operates The Urbanstead Farm inside of Francisville Village, a 42-unit housing complex for low-income seniors. They have a passive solar greenhouse where they grow food for the community and operate a seasonal farm stand.

Neighborhood Highlights

Families with children love the Francisville Recreation Center, Playground and Pool at 19th & Brown and the Francisville Playground at 1733 Francis Street. The pool is considered one of the cleanest in the City with an attentive staff and hosts numerous events for neighbors throughout the summer, like yoga at the pool.

After dark, a new jazz venue has popped up at Small Seeds Cafe, 1628-32 Ridge, presents nationally acclaimed jazz musicians, including Stanley Turpentine and David Newman, in a nod to the former Blue Note Jazz Club on Ridge which had featured jazz legends Miles Davis and John Coltrane in the 1950s.

Francisville is a historic neighborhood that has a lot to offer. With residents who care deeply about their community, and plenty of amenities close by, Francisville is a great walkable and bikeable neighborhood in close proximity to Center City.

Neighborhood Histories: Bella Vista

One of Philadelphia’s oldest and most desirable residential neighborhoods, Bella Vista is also among the most visited due to its abundance of restaurants and its famous outdoor Italian Market. It’s impossible to explore this charming neighborhood without falling in love with its shops, restaurants, and residents.

A veritable melting pot of nationalities, this historic area reflects Philadelphia’s ability to adapt to constantly changing patterns of immigration.  Bella Vista is bordered by South Street to the North, Washington Avenue to the south, 11th Street to the west, and 6th Street to the east.

Bella Vista History

Bella Vista is located within walking distance from what once was Philadelphia’s main port of entry, Pier 53, the Washington Avenue Wharf. From 1873 to 1915, a little over 1 million European immigrants came here directly from ports in Liverpool and Hamburg, bypassing Ellis Island.

Washington Avenue Immigration Station
Washington Avenue Immigration Station on Pier 53 – Image: City of Philadelphia, Dept. of Records

One of the first waves of immigrants to settle in Bella Vista was Irish, starting in the 1850s. Around the same time, former slaves from the South relocated to Bella Vista, establishing the Institute for Colored Youth in 1852 at 10th and Bainbridge. In the late 1800s, Italian immigrants began settling in the area in large numbers. Then in 1881, tens of thousands of Jewish peasants fleeing Russia and Ukraine migrated to South Philadelphia between South and Catherine Streets. Although many of these groups eventually moved to other sections of the City, suburbs, and Southern NJ, evidence of their former businesses, factories, and houses of worship can be found throughout Bella Vista.

Formerly known as Moyamensing, in the early 1970s, developers rebranded the neighborhood as Bella Vista (Beautiful View) and change followed. In 1978, this formerly deeply entrenched Italian neighborhood adapted to a large influx of Vietnamese, bringing with them popular restaurants along Washington Avenue. In the 1990s, Mexican immigrants arrived, opening taquerias, groceries, and other shops in the Italian Market. 

Historic Bella Vista: Walking Tour Highlights

Below are just a few of the historic sites recommended by The Bella Vista Neighbors Association:

Frances Ellen Watkins Harper House at 1006 Bainbridge is one of the two Underground Railroad sites in Bella Vista. Known as “the mother of African-American journalism,” Frances Harper was a writer, poet, novelist, lecturer, and civil rights leader. She lived in this three-story house from 1870 until her death in 1911.

Tripoli Barber Supply Company is located at 606 S. 9th Street and was built in 1911 by Italian-American architect Enrico Coscia. Although the property has changed hands several times, the original signage is still visible on this historic building.

The Bozzelli Bank, 735-37 S. 7th St., was originally part of South Philly’s “Bankers Row”. Built in 1892, this elegant 128-year-old building was altered in 1903. 

Hope Engine Company, 733 S. 6th Street, was built in 1851–1852 by Hoxie and Button Architects. It originally served as a firehouse for Hope Engine Company №17. The firehouse was eventually disbanded in 1871, one year before the city created the Philadelphia Fire Department in 1872.  

Bring your appetite

One of the oldest and largest open-air markets in America, Philly’s Italian Market, simply called 9th Street by locals, runs ten blocks from Fitzwater Street to Wharton Street. Here are some of our favorite foodie destinations in the area:

Anthony’s – If you love coffee and chocolate, pop into this indoor and outdoor spot for breakfast or lunch for an espresso, panini, and gelato.

Claudio’s – This specialty food shop offers olive oils, extra-aged balsamic vinegar, specialty imported pasta products, imported cheeses, meats, and many other Mediterranean delicacies. Sampling encouraged.

Esposito’s – For over 100 years, this purveyor of prime meats has been supplying Philly’s finest restaurants and homes.

DiBruno – Visit the original DiBruno Bros location where the choices of cheeses, olives, and other gourmet Italian treats are endless. 

Fante’s Kitchen Shop – You can’t eat here but you can drool over the most extensive collection of kitchenware in Philly, from French rolling pins to Italian espresso machines and milk frothers. 

Isgro’s – Located at 1009 Christian St., a block from the Italian Market but not to be overlooked. This traditional Italian bakery offers some of the best cannoli in the City.

Anastasi Seafood – Visit this fresh seafood mecca to take out or dine-in restaurant and bar offering Philly’s best crabs, lobster, shrimp, mussels, clams, etc.

South Philly BarbacoaThis acclaimed Mexican restaurant is headed up by Chef Cristina Martínez who won a James Beard Award for best chef in the Mid-Atlantic region this year and also owns Casa Mexico on 9th street. During weekends at this small restaurant, lines trail out the door, and customers gather at the outdoor tables to feast on their namesake slow-roasted “barbacoa” style tacos.

John’s Water Ice – Youse want “wooder” ice and soft pretzels? This is the only legit place to go. Order lemon water ice for the real deal. 

Villa Di Roma – Do you like velvet Sinatra paintings and giant meatballs? Villa Di Roma is the spot for Sicilian-style specialties, heavy on red sauce.

No matter how many times you have been to Bella Vista, there is always a reason to return and immerse yourself in its beauty, history, and international flavor.